East/West: A Culinary Journey through Malta, Lebanon, Iran, Turkey, Morocco, and Andalusia
By Shane Delia
2017, Interlink Books, 978-1-56656-006-1, $35 hb.
Reviewed by Tom Verde on September 15, 2018
Noting the latitudinal boundaries of the countries in this handsome cookbook’s subtitle, students of history will quickly get the gist. This “East” to “West” culinary journey is “deeply rooted” in the author’s Phoenician heritage, a legacy of trade and travel dating to antiquity. Yet the equally adventurous modern cook will appreciate the creative range of recipes offered here, rooted in tradition, yet updated for the contemporary, albeit sophisticated, kitchen. Starting in Malta, his ancestral home, chef Shane Delia provides a version of the island’s signature dish: rabbit stew. Due east lies Lebanon, where traditional baked bulgar (kibbeh) is nuanced with tomato, mint and pomegranate molasses. From Turkey comes Delia’s own twist on Turkish delight, made from fine semolina and candied, spiced pumpkin. Beautiful photographs highlight the rich diversity of these cultural cuisines.