The Gaza Kitchen: A Palestinian Culinary Journey
By Laila El-Haddad and Maggie Schmitt
2016, Just World Books, 978-1-68257-008-1, $29.99 hb.
Reviewed by Tom Verde on June 29, 2017
A Gaza cookbook may seem a frivolous idea for a land of deep political strife. Yet the “clamor of pots,” laughing voices and “the splatter of hot oil” emanating from Gazan kitchens transcend politics. Some of the 140 recipes in this colorfully illustrated volume are predictable: Mjadarra (rice and lentils, a Levantine standard), Felafel and Imtabbel Bitinjan (baba ghanooj). Many more are uniquely tied to Gazan history and culture: Ruz eb Maya (chickpeas and rice, “one of the many simple dishes that emerged in the years following the 1948 exodus”); Tagin Samak (poached fish and tahina stew), a fish-shack favorite; and Sumagiyya (sumac-infused chard-and-lamb stew), a “quintessentially Gazan” end-of-Ramadan entrée. Just as engaging are sidebars and profiles highlighting home cooks plus purveyors and preservers of Gaza’s culinary heritage. First published in 2013, this updated edition includes new recipes and a renewed dedication to the shared cuisines of the region.