
In Bibi’s Kitchen: The Recipes and Stories of Grandmothers From the Eight African Countries That Touch the Indian Ocean
Tom Verde
Hawa Hassan with Julia Turshen
2020, Ten Speed Press, 978198456739, $35, hb.
In lands that both meet sea and intersect historic crossroads of African and Arab cultures, bibis (grandmothers in Erithrean) of eight East African countries blend family stories together within seventy-five recipes, reflecting the cross-cultural heritage of the kitchens where they still cook dishes passed down for generations. The life of Ma Halima, a bibi raised in predominantly Sunni-Muslim Somalia, summarizes the diversity at the heart of many of these recipes-cum-testimonials. Born in Eritrea, she also lived in Saudi Arabia, where she learned to cook haneeth, “a mixture of rice, lamb, and spices.” Harees (stewed cracked wheat with chicken), a popular Ramadan dish introduced to East Africa “by Arab settlers” is typical of the Zanzibari cuisine of Ma Shara, while in Comoros, “from qamar, Arabic for ‘moon,’” fudge-like roho, infused with cardamom, is a classic wedding sweet. Country profiles and interviews with individual bibis add dimension to this tribute to grandmother’s cooking.
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